Wednesday, March 30, 2016

hot as f*ck in south India.

Hot as F*ck in Varks aka. Varkala Beach, Kerala, India.

riding on my post panchakarma sparkle I have brought myself to the seaside for some sand, sun and shopping :) Varkala Beach has become a popular tourist and backpacker destination in south india, perched above the rolling ocean waves sits "North Cliff", where a pedestrian walkway leads you along the cliff top to explore shops, restaurants, hotels and yoga studios. Wandering the north you'll find countless vendors selling you everything under the sun. clothes, jewelry, purses, trinkets, and more shawls than your mind could ever dream of having. South cliff is a little more laid back, you'lll find "Holy beach" at the end of the main road where puja ceremonies dominate the shore and it is filled with indian locals on vacation. It's been a bit of an energetic adjustment coming to Varkala from the ashram. It can be exhausting when everyone you pass by is coming onto you, trying to sell you something or take you for a ride in their rickshaw. I can appreciate the effort, they are trying to make a living (and it is the end of the season so their are much fewer of us western folks to try their luck with.) C'est la vie, that's india!

I have not been completely comfortable for a while. I've been in Varks for a week now and it's blazing hot. The phrase "hot as fuck" was definitely coined by someone in India. Getting enough water is a very real concern. Buying coconuts roadside for 30 rupee is a daily regime.
My mornings begin around 6 or 7, I venture upstairs to the yoga shala on the roof for sitting meditation, pranayama & asana. There are no classes and I have free reign of the shala to take my time with morning practice. Gazing out across the sky, my eyes land on the palm trees in the distance. A gorgeous drishti for practice times. I've explored a few places on north cliff for breakfast, but my favourite still stands as the Passionfruit restaurant attached to my hotel Askshay Beach Residence. (their food is insanely good - some of the best i've had in india so far....I even got to help them cater a wedding when I first arrived! But more of that in another post!!)
The days have been fun. Over the first couple I met up with a few girls from the ashram. We had some lovely meals together and shopped shopped shopped. It's really been my first real shopping opportunity in India.....so i'm obviously taking full advantage. Not to mention the reduced low season prices. A local jeweller sold me a brilliant ring that i'm absolutely in love with, a handmade gift to myself of sparkling topaz to mark the completion of panchakarmaa and the start of a new beginning on my journey. It reminds me to shine bright and that patience & persistence are beautiful practices.
(A strategic choice on my behalf to wear no jewellery when beginning this pilgrimage to India i'm sure i'll be finding a few more treasures to sport along the way)

Even in this blazing heat i've been sure to do some exploring. Yesterday morning i decided to practice on the beach at 7am followed by a northward walk along the cliff and beyond to a local fishing village where the fishermen had just hauled the nets in and were yelling (a typical event) and haggling to unload the fish to middlemen who deliver to restaurants and markets. I ended up stumbling upon some pretty luxurious and secluded beach resorts close to there and caught a rickshaw back to my side of town.

This little oasis is spilling over with beach comers, stray dogs, epic ocean panoramic views and I have met some lovely people while on this leg of the journey. I'll stay another few days. I've been trying to get a train out of here....but it's proving a difficult task. 
Stay tuned for more on the glorious world of the indian railway....tickets, trials, tribulations and terrible toilets.

with love under the sun,

A

the "glorious" panchakarma experience.

I came to india to renew this body, detox from the stresses of life, balance my emotions and to study the ancient sister science to yoga, Ayurveda. Arriving at the ashram I had the intention of undergoing a full body 14 day revitalization Ayurvedic treatment called panchakarma. Visiting the Sivananda Institute of Health and booking a few massages I decided against it. I would save my money get a few treatments, study books from the library and leave it at that...it didn't happen in exactly that way :)

After 10 days, settling into the waves of life here and some convincing conversations with other guests, i am currently on day 4 of my treatment. 
Panchakarma is a major therapeutic procedure to purify the body. In sanskrit it means Pancha "Five" karma "actions". The procedure is comprised of various "actions"/treatments in three stages: preparatory, panchakarma & post. The prep stage lasts between 7-10 days and includes oil massage, hot bundles of medicated herbs, and shirodhara (the pouring of warm oil on the forehead). Panchakarma stage consists of a purgation (drinking a concoction of herbal medicine) followed by a few days of alternating massages & herbal enemas.

Beginning this treatment I consulted with Dr. Vishnu an expert in the field of Ayurveda medicine. He assigned a specific treatment plan for my specific body type and complaints. Balancing the excess Vata would be essential to healing and letting go of chronic neck and back pain from stress and prior injury.

*

I have reached the halfway point of the treatment. The first week was exhausting. Never would I have imagined a week of massages and literally doing nothing would be so taxing on the body. I have felt fatigued, muscle weakness, constipated, hungry, headaches, angry, sad, content.....the list goes on. My legs have consistently felt heavy over the course of my treatment (stairs might as well be Mount Everest!) It was unreal and extremely baffling to an athlete like myself.

As I learned, for good reasons, the first few days of the preparatory massages really had my body feeling tired. The toxins start to be drawn out from the tissues and the toxic blood slows down the whole system. Over the next few days I started to experience some very strong emotions. Anger and sadness were the two that hit me the most. The anger was a big one for me to really feel, acknowledge and be grateful to release. I could have thought I was going a bit mad had the doctor not been available whenever I needed a chat to ease my mind, it's a wild ride. I started to experience sensations in my veins. I could see my veins pulsing in a way I have never seen before. Imagine there were little bugs crawling under the skin and you can view their movement patterns....thats the best way I can explain it. I've also been hallucinating a bit, mistaking twigs, leaves and shadows for bugs and spiders. Seriously, wild.

This process is not for the faint of mind or heart. It is a deep commitment to wellness. It is a practice of listening to the body and really taking time to rest. Watching my mind want to "be productive" and not just laze around has been a difficult one to overcome. And there has been more dreaming about my favourite foods than imaginable. I have planned and experienced the eating of three of my favourite pizzas from back home in Toronto. One would think this is torturous to daydream about food in this way, but surprisingly it isn't. It's probably because I really have made this commitment and have stuck to it perfectly so far - not even snacking throughout the day! Also it helps to be "trapped" in the ashram unable to escape ;) I know the pizza will be there waiting for me upon return to the T.dot.

Each one of my treatments from days 2-7 are the same. oil massage, followed by herbal hot packs pounded on to the body, then a medicated oil on shoulders, ending with shirodhara (warm oil poured on the forehead) for the balancing of brain waves and emotional stability. It's been amazing to watch the body go through the exact same treatment at the same time of day and have completely different experiences each time. Some days i'm more energetically tired, some days more physically, other days mentally. But i've continued to feel more mentally clear as the days go on.

We, member of the "panchi" club as my friend Phoebes and I have coined it, eat separate from everyone else at the ashram. We are also relieved of our karma yoga duties. The ashram really does hold an incredible container for this healing journey. I'm so thankful.

The sivananda health centre is on the back side of the property and overlooks the lake. It's peaceful. I often sit and write over here. I like it best when the other "panchi's" are not here. They are a bit "chatty" for my liking. You'd think that with 8 signs around the space saying "your silence will help others to heal, so please..." and "silence please" that they would get the point......but they don't. It's kinda nice that most of them speak in french so I can easily tune them out as I don't know what they are saying anyway. haha.
(As I review this collection of thoughts about my panchi experience I'm with three days left of my treatment and I feel less affected by others chatting in the quiet zone. I was wound up tight as a top when starting this process haha).

This has been a brilliant so far. Exhausting, but great. More later. Rest now.

I will be going into some gritty details of the intensity of this experience below...just a warning. I felt the need to write in great detail on my whole panchakarma experience. It was really helpful to read of others experiences online, so i wanted to make sure to share the love and keep the flow of information coming to put other's minds at ease.

*

i will never forget today. March 20th, 2016. After a three day pause (during my period as treatment is not advisable) I restarted panchakarma treatment with a "big enema". About one litre of a specialized "potion" for my specific conditions were pumped into me. A warm shower from the neck down concludes the treatment portion where I alternated between toilet and shower. (In india the entire bathroom is a shower anyway, making this process extremely convenient). 

Intense perspiration combined with deep breathing and waves of tingling and nerve sensation traveling through my arms was what made this experience unforgettable. In the bathroom, naked and looking at my beautiful smile in the mirror I gazed into my own eyes and i knew everything was going to be okay. It was as if all the nervous tension i've been holding, all the discomfort and anger (I had felt particularly angry and intense emotion during Kizhi, when my therapist pounded the hot bundles onto my shoulders and low back) had been extracted. I felt deeply settled in my body in a way I have never experienced before.

Today's treatment was in a new room. The intensity of yesterdays big enema was the real turing point in my panchi. How unbelievably poetic that for the past two weeks i've been in a dark small room. Today I was welcomed into a bright, beautiful corner suite with three windows and gorgeous white tiled walls with some stone trim. Talk about night and day. Talk about literally moving from darkness to light. 
Spirit has been watching over me. I followed my heart and intuition here knowing how badly I was needing some deep healing time.

Three more treatment days and four more days at the ashram. I'll be regrouping and following post treatment from the beach at varkela (although sad to say i am not able to be in the sun, nor swim in the sea....doctors orders). From there the plan is to head north to the mountains...

Tomorrow, March 24th marks the end of a process that required all of my heart and soul. I could not have done this without the support of the community at Sivananda Ashram Neyyar Dam, Kerala, India. I bow in their honour. The doctors and therapists who took care of me for three weeks - I bow to you. I bow to myself and acknowledge the courage, patience and wisdom it required to succeed in this experience. 

Literally I feel reborn. The aliveness in my arms and sensations all the way down to my toes have been awakened and unblocked. Years of "stuck ness" that i've been desperately trying to "unstick" suddenly flowed with ease.
I feel clarity in my mind. Light. I am so humbled by this entire experience. I feel so alive.

The best is yet to come. This experience has been life changing. this experience has exceeded my expectations. this experience is exactly what I needed and what my heart called for.
I've just emerged from my 14th and final treatment. My body is humming with happiness, peace, clarity, freedom, health. I feel radiant and more alive than I ever have. I'm ready to turn 33 and take good care of myself for the rest of my life. To recognise when we need to heal and make space for it is the best gift we can give ourselves. It is so essential for wellbeing. I am beyond inspired and will continue to put my efforts to work and hold healing space for others to nourish and recharge. 

Spring is here. Holi festival is celebrated across this great land. I end panchakarma and look forward to a new beginning.

Monday, March 21, 2016

Essentials for India - The Packing List

When preparing for my Indian adventure I read quite a few blogs, packing lists, travel websites, had been given information from friends, in addition to of course consulting a decade of travel experience I already have under my belt.
The list below is divided into a few sections. My best advice is to pack less than you think you need. Pack and repack. pack and repack. pack and repack. Keep taking things out. If you truly feel like you want to have something with you, bring it. Comfort can be nice in trying times. 

Things I am SO grateful to have brought:

-travel pillow (not only for sleeping but for yoga & meditation)
-hand sanitizer
-about 4 varietals of wipes (face wipes, body refreshers, lysol wipes for cleaning)
-travel mug for tea
-scarf (this can triple as a blanket and also eye mask for sleeping)
-custom essence spray (blended it before I left and added lovely lavender) 
-shampoo & conditioner from LUSH (in amazing little silver containers that won an award for green packaging) love love love these.
-hypoallergenic bed bug mattress protector (and pillowcase) (there most definitely are bed bugs....and I haven't been affected....brilliant investment, i feel so cozy)
-Birkenstocks 
-headlamp/flashlight 

My packing list of goodies:

-apple tablet and wireless keyboard
-light weight sleeping bag (MEC)
-medical travel insurance (i did not add contents insurance, I found the extra cost was not worth it as i did not really bring anything too valuable, except the tablet)
-neutrogena spray on 60spf sun protector
-toiletries....everyone's list will vary. A favourite: burts bees lip balm. Pack this type of stuff in ziplock bags
-extra ziplock bags - these will come in SO handy for so many things
-good bug spray. I am super natural when it comes to my products - but trust, go for the heavy duty outdoorsy/military grade stuff. 
-dr bronners "miracle" soap (it's body wash, it's laundry detergent, it's amazing) 
-tea tree essential oil (it has many great applications)
-oil of oregano & shelf stable probiotics
-glass waterbottle (life factory)
-earplugs & iphone for musica :) crucial
-"Teachings on Love" by Thich Naht Hanh (my favourite book) + one more book
-rain jacket
-down under layer (it's hard to pack for india if you are traveling all over due to so many climates....this light weight jacket also doubles as a second pillow)
-hiking boots
-good travel towel 
-mini backpack/daypack (i didn't bring on my trip to central america and always wished I had it)
-clothing will also vary for everyone...pack light, make each item of clothes work together ideally. I am happy to have light shorts and a tiny tank to sleep in...it's bloody hot here! You can easily buy clothing here though and will want to for sure! Dress conservatively.
-dry bags house my clothes and also double as a laundry bag (it's a nice way to divide stuff in the pack)
-mini lock securing the zipper of my pack (i would leave the tablet in here often and under the bed)
-light slip on shoes (like crocs)

Crap I wish i did not bring:

-a second warm scarf (already shipped home amongst other things)
-a second sports bra
-bug net (every place has them...even the shadier places)
-extra headphones 
-dry shampoo
-a heavier type journal....i haven't really written in it; something lightweight is better
-my favourite comb....i haven't used it once haha (my mother would be mortified!) I have really manageable hair and i just kinda let it be after i comb the conditioner thru it with my fingers :)
-my travel purse....i love it, Its just too cumbersome.
-a pretty extensive medical kit (although i did not really have to dive into it too much.....but medicine is readily available for cheap. This was a personal decision and had I needed something from here i may have been glad for the convenience of carrying it. And also I'm still in India...so there could be a revision to this note - but I hope not)

Things I thought about bringing and was glad I didn't:

-water sanitizing situation (i thought long and hard about this) I am doing no real trekking and can purchase bottled water everywhere easily
-blanket
-laptop
-a large padlock for securing my pack


Like on any journey make sure to bring your ninja street smarts and a beautiful open heart. 
Stay safe & Bon voyage. Love, Ashley

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

ashram rhythms

It has been almost two weeks since arriving here in India. Sivananda Ashram is like a little piece of Indian heaven. The heat has been an adjustment, with days getting upwards of 40 degrees and nights falling not too far under 30 degrees. None the less, the hot sun shines in the sky. Twice per week on Wednesday and Sunday the entire ashram takes a 30 minute silent walk to the lakeside at 6am to welcome the beautiful sun. As it rises over the mountains, reflecting perfectly into the lake, we sing songs and chant. (The sunset every night is just as captivating and often i'll stand on the roof and watch the big ball of perfect red light set across the valley and over the escarpment.) 

Tea is waiting for us in the garden upon our arrival at 7:30am and we casually start the day chatting amongst friends. 8am we practise yoga, both pranayama (breathing) and asana (postures) with prayers always beginning and ending a class. Brunch is served at 10am. Typically we enjoy rice with delicious mild coconut vegetable curries, with a side of vegetables such as cucumbers, okra, tomato, cabbage, carrot and often yummy tomato soup (a personal favourite). Karma yoga duties, where everyone has assigned jobs to help around the ashram, goes from 11-12. 

Noon time, three days per week teachers offer meditation coaching in the temple and 12:30 asana coaching daily. A daily lecture on various topics such as What is yoga? Pranayama, Bhakti, Ayurveda, etc happens at 2pm. I have attended a few, but I usually get massages at that time and miss it. (more on the wonder of massages later) A second yoga class at 3:30pm (which i'll skip if i've had a massage) taking us to just before dinner at 6pm. Evening satsang at 8pm in the great Swami Vishnu Devananda hall we sit for 30 minutes, sing for 30 and listen to the swami's read from Sivananda's (the guru of this lineage of yoga) books. We chant the Arrati (a "waving of the light" hindu ceremony) and then eat Prasad (tasty snacks first offered to the gods and blessed from our evening of prayers). They have delish Prasad here, peanut balls, spiced bread with nuts, grapes, pomm seeds, banana, sesame snaps etc.

The days are full and rich. I've spent a lot of time in the temple gardens doing walking meditation and writing poetry. This place is perfectly tucked into the tropical Keralan landscape. Palm tress are mixed between papaya, mango & fig trees and closely hug so many more varietals of plants, ferns, palms and trees. Ponds, fountains, statues of deities, pathways, a snack hut,... This sanctuary allows me space to create grooves of familiarity in body and mind. Its aided me in reflection and is letting me heal and put this body back into balance. 
"Wherever you go, there you are" I don't remember who is responsible for this quote...but it always rings true for me. You cannot escape yourself even in the midst of the most gorgeous settings.

Mediation is still a challenge. My mind wanders and gets into planning mode.  I am still overwhelmed by the heat and frustrated with catching a cough/cold when I first arrived. Thoughts of life back home and the analysis of, well everything haha.  It's all here with me. But moment to moment I feel lucky that I can be right here and present to it all. This time is a blessing. I am very fortunate to have the opportunity to sit in my own discomforts and have space to pay attention.

Om namah shivaya,
-A

Monday, March 7, 2016

Spider situation

I killed two spiders this morning and im pretty sure they were husband and wife. I am still sad about it. Yes, they were creepy looking and they were chillin under my bed in the dorm. Found them when I was cleaning and I'm not gonna lie they freaked me out.  They were not small. I can get down and outdoorsy with the best of them.....but I don't know if i'll ever be fully comfortable with the critters of this world and I sharing a bedroom.

A day later i'm still thinking about the two spiders I smushed. They were even in my dreams last night. I have also been thinking about the fact that my dear sweet nan would never kill a spider. Shit. 

Thursday, March 3, 2016

Poetry in the garden

Walking in the garden,
Slowly.
Ants on green leaves,
Working.
Seen when not looking,
Everywhere.

A bug lands on this phone,
Unfamiliar to these eyes.
Washing his face,
Watching closely.
Typing,
He flies away.

All around is beauty.
In stillness is seen,
The rusty light and hook with string.
Trees through rooftops and archways 
Beyond this is another tree.
The crows sing and fly to other places.

Friends of the garden,
You play as I walk.
The hot sun.
Dear dragonfly messenger,
Your colours change.
Are your feet dirty too?

-A.Lord
Sivananda Vendanta Ashram
Kerala, India